In case you want the information, a 550ti folds about 7k to 9k ppd.
In case you want the information, a 550ti folds about 7k to 9k ppd.
Don't worry I'm going to draw myself a "More interesting to look at" Avatar soon.
I'm going to be criticising a bit here. The first thing is that this is slightly outdated, but this is since you haven't updated since january.
If you are doing slightly heavy video editing and 3d modeling, get the Intel Core i7 2600K
If you are doing heavy video editing and 3d modeling at a professional level (Larger projects, full 3d landscapes, heavy edits etc) get either the 3960X or an Intel Xeon.
If you are hosting a server or other CPU heavy stuff (EG F@H), get an Intel Xeon. Note that hosting a server at home is NOT recommended unless you have extremely good internet and cheap electricity. If not you will end up paying more then getting a proper host.
3. Most 100$+ MOBO's have more then a normal user needs
4. Note that having multiple GPU's (also known as Crossfire/SLI) is NOT RECOMMENDED. Most GPU's in 2x SLI/CF will suffer heavy microstuttering (your game might be playing at 100FPS, but the way the GPU's work together simply makes it appear like 10-40FPS). The Nvidia 680 in 3x SLI actually has less performance then in 2x SLI (with the current drivers that is). Also remember that getting 2 GPU's won't give you 200% performance, more like 170%. The GPU I have seen that is closest to scaling to 200% is the AMD Radeon HD 7970 (currently AMD's most powerful card), at approx 95% scaling in BF3.
5. Important! I know people that have bought the wrong sockets and hammered their CPU's trying to fit it into the MOBO.
2. Start burning when you plug it in
3. Fry the rest of the parts. And when I mean fry I mean that it is so bad that it sends the wrong amount of power through the other parts, essentially overloading them and breaking them.
4. Simply not work.
Generally, if your computer has 1 TOP-end GPU (GPU is the part that takes the most power) and some rather expensive other parts 600W is more then enough (in fact, 450-550W should be enough), and if you are using 2 GPU's I recommend at LEAST 650W.
1. ATX is the size of the motherboard. mATX, ATX ETC. Normal cases are ATX and so are most normal MOBO's.
2. Note that a Full Tower case is extremele large and weigh alot. I recommend a mid-tower to most people, especially if you are going to alot of LAN's.
3. Althought most full tower cases provide more cooling opportunities, a mid tower will be the best for an average person.
4. Space. You need alot of space for a Full Tower. In exchange you have alot of space inside of them, which means you can often fit more GPU's, larger MOBO's, more HDD's etc.
Nvidia 690 (I don't recommend anybody to use this much on a GPU, since the 680 runs all games on max, and so does the 7970).
Nvidia 680. If you can, get one with the Twin Frozr III fan at a slightly higher price.
AMD Radeon 7970 (IIRC you also get 3 games for free at select stores (newegg))
Nvidia 670 (almost as powerful as the 7970, more powerful then the 7950. Nvidia so good for folding).
AMD Radeon 7950
AMD Radeon 7870
Nvidia 560Ti 448 Version
AMD Radeon 7850
AMD Radeon 6950/Nvidia 560Ti
AMD Radeon 6850
This list WILL change, since Nvidia is releasing new GPU's right now and AMD is reducing their prices because of Nvidia.
3. In general, yes, though I'd put it more around $120 or so, unless you are going Sandy Bridge-E of course.
4. Yes, I know microstuttering can happen, but I've noticed that both Nvidia and AMD drivers have done a lot to correct it lately. Actually, in most cases, Tri-SLI 680s will still be better than regular SLI, and anyway, if you want to spend $1500 on JUST the GPUs in your computer, I'd hope you know what you're doing anyway.
5. Yeah, you generally don't need a hammer.
[QUOTE=ℍuntlocker;2026353]RAM is going up in price ATM, and since it's so cheap now I highly recommend buying some extra RAM, just because. Very rarely are you ever going to need more then 8Gb (the only program I can think of is Adobe After Effects). And also note that if you are getting a Sandy Bridge Intel CPU, there is absolutely no reason to ever get RAM at a frequency higher then 1333Mhz, simply because SB dosen't support anything higher without changing the values through a slightly complicated proccess. Even if the CPU supports frequencies above 1333Mhz, the difference between 1333Mhz and 1866Mhz RAM in games are between 0.05 and 0.1 FPS.[/quote
Once again, depends on what you are doing. F@H can sometimes like higher clocked RAM, and Sandy Bridge CAN actually easily support frequencies beyone 1333MHz, even if it isn't in the spec, due to XMP and other things. But yeah, RAM speed doesn't matter much, though I'd go 1600MHz simply because its so close in price to 1333MHz RAM. Also, VMware can easily use 32GB of RAM at times, so it certainly is possible to use a lot more.
I covered microstuttering above, as said. Yep, VRAM doesn't matter that much, but I tend to do multiple huge monitors, so it matters for me. Anyway, the basic thing is that a lot of my decisions here were covered by the fact that this is in the F@H section, I wanted to make a guide that would be pretty good for the normal user but also max out PPD without making any really large sacrifices. That's why I chose the CPUs and GPUs that I did, though if it were a non-folding rig I might have made different choices.
I actually do have an SSD (Crucial M4 64Gb), and I do see a small difference (note: small), but I don't feel it is worth the 100$. I do realise that slowing down SSD's mostly occur on older versions, but it will still occur if you use the drive alot. And yeah, the read-only thing is a slight overstatement since it most likely won't occur on newer SSD's used in regular computers, but it can still occur. And OCZ products are nice, and their SSD's are quite reliable, but from what I have seen they have a notably higher failure rate then, lets say the Crucial M4. The good thing is their high speed though.Also, my thing is that you have NO idea what SSDs are like until you really use one. Its not just boot time, its EVERYTHING. If you asked me what is the ONE upgrade that would make a PC feel pretty much new again, it would be an SSD. As to the slowing down/read only thing you talk about, thats not really much of a problem with current SSDs. New SSDs have the TRIM command to reduce performance hits, and even at their worst state they have MUCH better performance than an HDD. Further, the read only thing will only happen if you are pretty much doing very large writes to your SSD 24/7. Modern SSDs have pretty agressive wear leveling algorithms and very little write amplification. I've had good luck in the past with OCZ, maybe its just you?
I want a RAM with sixty bagagillion megabytes
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Don't forget to update the prices, they've declined.